Phase 3 - Maroon Ridge and North Maroon Peak

It was a big relief to remove our crampons and look forward to the scramble on mostly dry rock.  There were a few 5th class sections so we brought along a 30 Meter / 100 foot light rope ( 8 millimeters ) and a small rack of protection. 

Looking up 4th class exit of the saddle.

Me climbing out of the saddle.

The climbing was great, the rock was very solid where it needed to be.

Here is another Gendarme or tower. It looks improbable at 4th class but you can see the right leaning ramp that goes to the top. The climbing here always looks harder from a distance, it makes dramatic photos.

Here you can see one of the Gendarme bypasses on the left. I have no doubt that most if not all of the 5th class climbing could be avoided by leaving the ridge at times. It would take good route finding and a less aesthetic line. Snow on the sides of the ridge made it an unattractive option for us.  The first very short 5th class was lead by John free solo with a spot for me, pretty ballsy. He then lowered a toprope which I gladly accepted.

This was our second 5th class pitch which I lead, it went at 5.3.

That was our longest roped pitch. Looking down... excellent exposure!

This was the hardest pitch at 5.7 taking the ridge on directly and pulling around a small roof. We chose this short pitch over a much easier but longer route to the west.  The 5th class pitches protected well.  Tricams from brown to orange seemed to go in solid everywhere but   I wish I had my 0 and 00 Metolius cams that day.  Most cracks in the mud/silt/sand stone were too even and smooth for nuts and the knifeblade pitons should have stayed home.

The prow in the background sits above a gap in the ridge that John wanted to jump into. The normal way around had snow leading to 2000 foot drop. I did not like the idea of jumping so suggested some belayed snow travel.

This was the alternative to jumping, we ran the rope between some boulders for friction and a toprope orientation. Natural protection, worked great.

My belay of the gap, I had an excellent groove to brace both heels and good rope drag. Nice shot of N. Maroon in the background, our destination.

John wanted me to lead that tower. "In hiking boots? Are you crazy?". I set up a solid belay anchor for traversing the snow on the right side.

It turned out this section of snow was short when we turned the corner. I was able to climb over a snow bank and into a dry notch area where the snow curves downward in the middle of the photo. A short scramble regained the ridge proper.

Exiting the ridge to the talus on the left, it was nice to have a longer stretch of walking terrain.

Headed up N. Maroon.

From a distance it looks a lot harder,  once you see it up close you realize it is relatively easy scrambling.

John on North Maroon summit with Maroon in the background and the ridge below.  On to the final phase, our descent.